Venice

We have quite the list of places in the World we want to visit, although we do not agree on all of them! For our 10th Anniversary we had booked an Hawaiian cruise in May but also wanted to do something on the actual date. As we also want to do an extension on the house we decided it was probably best to keep such an expensive trip for another year. So Hawaii has been cancelled for now...

So we went to our list to pick somewhere for a few days or a week in January. It didn't take us long to decide on Venice. It has been quite high on the wish list for a while. We love Italy, we knew we wanted something special and this is supposed to be one of the most romantic cities in the world! It did not disappoint...

Sunday 12th January.

I was up around 5am to do some last bits of organising. Hather was very clingy following me around the house. He knows I'm not usually up at that time so must have thought something was up.

Carl was up at 6, both showered and we were out of the house by 7. Picked up some coffees from McDonalds. the drive was fairly uneventful and seemed to go quickly, we listed to one of our fave podcasts "Shagged, Married, annoyed" which helped arriving around 8.

The airport was the quietest we had ever seen. Unfortunately my bag got selected for checking which took ages!! There were a few people in front of me having theirs checked who had left liquids in *Shakes head*. Nothing wrong with my bag so we were on our way.

We wanted to treat ourselves to an easy early morning airport experience since it was our anniversary. So Carl had booked us the lounge which was just over £40. We wanted to be sure of a seat and space. We figured by the time we bought breakfast and a drink or 2 we'd easily spend that and the last few times the bars were all packed. As it turned out we didn't need to. We were only there during breakfast hours and the offerings were Sausages, Bacon, Beans, Scrambled Eggs, Bread Rolls, cereals, pastries, Juices, Pepsi products and hot drinks all of which you could help yourself to. It also included drinks, they had several spirits - way too early for that so I didn't pay to close attention, wine and beers were Heineken on tap and bottles of 1664 & Tiger. Champagne and Prosecco were the only things which came with an extra charge.

We each decided to have a Heineken (Poured as 2/3 a pint) with Breakfast Baps, Carl had the works and I had Sausage and Bean. Carl watched Match of the Day and I did some scrolling around on my phone and started my note taking. Carl decided to have a bottle of Tiger whilst I had a pepsi max and some pastries.

We pretty much had the place to ourselves! had another Heineken each. Too early to get our full moneys worth and had we known it'd be so quiet everywhere we probably wouldn't have booked the lounge. But it was worth knowing we would be guaranteed a comfortable seat whilst we waited.

Gate was called 10:30, flight was about 3/4 full which made for easy boarding and we were able to take off about 10 mins early which is unheard of for our anniversary trips which are more likely to be delayed!!

There was quite a lot of cloud cover this morning so not much of a view until we got over he mountains. I will never not love flying over snow capped mountains.

We were due in 14:35 but actually landed 14:06 so not bad at all! We were quickly off the Plane then I had a special gift for Carl, I had booked us a Private boat transfer directly to the hotel this was a little pricey and much more expensive than alternatives BUT it was our 10th anniversary, it was our 1st visit and I wanted to do something special and this is how I always envisaged getting to Venice. I cannot find the email and I am writing this 6 months later but I think it was 110 euros. It's priced per person and I think it was 60 Euros for 1

Almost as soon as we hit the city I fell in love with the place. I knew straight away we were going to really enjoy this trip. It always helps first impressions of a new place arriving under a blue sky with brilliant sunshine.

The water taxi dropped us nearly all the way to our hotel. When picking a hotel it was important for me to pick one that was easy walking distance to everywhere. When we booked we did have another, bigger, trip booked for this year so I wanted self catering as it's a great way to save some spending money on a city break. I spent a lot of time looking at all of the different options but ultimately settled on Hotel Residence La Fenice. We had the 1 bedroom apartment with roof terrace it cost me £319 for the 5 nights plus 5 euros per person per night city tax on arrival. For those who don't like stairs this is not the hotel for you. There was quite a long staircase to the first floor and there were a lot of stairs to the top floor where we were. No elevators. It was fine for us but after very long days of walking getting up them at the end of the day could be a little struggle. That said I would stay there again in a heartbeat and can recommend. The 2 members of staff we encountered were lovely and English was perfect but we hardly saw anybody. I don't know how busy it was, we were there mid-week in January but it seemed quiet and was clean and comfortable. Below pictures were taken that night or following morning but here seems a good place to put them

That's Campanile di San Marco in those photos so you can see how close we were to St Marks Sq.

They text us the door entry codes in advance so no waiting around to see someone at check in. We were able to go to our room and dump our stuff before heading out for a wander.

We did stop in there! I didn't take a handbag so got a bargain tote bag which I am using every day for work now so not a bad investment.

We had a reservation to get to. There is a department store which has a rooftop terrace. You can book 15 minute visits for free via the website in advance you can also book on iPads when there but you may have to go away and come back later. I had booked in advance for 4:15 - 4:30 based on when sunset was supposed to be. In hindsight I should have booked the next slot but would definitely recommend and we would do it again.

After we crossed the Rialto bridge and had a little wander around. Feeling a little peckish we grabbed a large slice of Pizza to share €3.50

Then back across the Rialto bridge we did a little more exploring where we stumbled upon the Devils Forest pub. It was playing some of our favourite bands so was our kinda place. Had a pint each €14.00 then Aperol Spritz €3.00 Passion spritz €3.50. This is where a love of Aperol Spritz was born!

Then decided to meander toward St Marks Square via a co-op food store where we picked up a bottle of wine for later . Then decided on another aperol spritz at Rossopomodoro. These 2 places we went to a few times they were pretty good.

We had 7pm reservations at Hard Rock Cafe .... I know I know I know! When arriving late afternoon somewhere I like the idea of having an evening meal booked so we don't have to spend ages looking for something to eat. We've learnt not everything is open in January as it is a low level for tourism so you don't know where might be open in advance. Hard Rock always is. It is one of our favourite restaurants. We knew we were going to have a good meal and I got to add Venice to my reward map.

We had what now seems to be the usual. Nachos followed by Bacon and whiskey jam sliders to share

Tired and full we decided to call it a night and walked the short distance back to our apartment. I unpacked our clothes and started getting ready for tomorrow whilst Carl poured us a glass of wine each which we enjoyed on our roof terrace stargazing and talking about our highlights so far - arrival and roof terrace sunset for me. We did a little food research on YouTube and I caught up with trip notes. In bed with lights out by 10:30.

Monday 13th January.

We had planned to get up around 7 this morning to get ready, get out and watch the sunrise and enjoy some quiet streets. We ended up hitting snooze a few times and getting up at 8. We enjoyed a coffee in the apartment (we were going to have it on the roof terrace but it was 2 degrees and we were still in our PJs!!)

Once ready we headed out for breakfast. We had found a local place called Marchini Time in the Lonely planet guide book. Page 41. It is a small cafe and mostly standing room as most places are in Venice.

Just some of the wares. They had not long opened when we got there. It was all fresh and more was being brought out all the time.

We had a cappuccino each and there was so much goodness to choose from we decided to pick a selection to try.

We had a chocolate orange twist, a chocolate croissant and an Almond croissant. That Almond croissant was the best I have ever had. the almonds were sugar coated and crunchy. It was so good we had to have another washed down with another coffee.

Total for breakfast was €13.20.

Short walk back to the apartment to get ready for the day. We had arranged to meet the hotel manager between 9:30 & 10 to pay the city tax so tried to do that when we got back at 9:30 and knocked on the door a few times 9:50. No answer so we decided to head out, they knew how to find us after all!

Today we were going to walk around and see as much of the city as possible. We headed across the Rialto Bridge and walked around San Polo getting lost through the alleys.

We decided to go into I Frari Basilica which was €3.00 each.

We meandered the streets looking for a stop we had seen on travel programme Travel Man

That's right, it was freezing cold but we wanted some Gelato! Carl had 1 scoop chocolate hazelnut and 1 coffee. I had 1 scoop pistachio and 1 coffee. It was delicious creamy ice cream. We continued our wanderings toward Cannareggio & the Ghetto areas

Around midday we decided to head to a place called Al Parlamento for some Cicheti which is basically a Venetian Tapas. I had an Aperol Spritz, Carl had a house red and we shared Mozzarella in Carroza prosciuto, Polpette di Formagie & Arancini

Then headed over to wander around the Ghetto. We tried a few places for a rest and cold drink but a lot of places that should have been opened were closed. Perhaps an off season inconvenience. We ended up in the first open place which was a quiet Irish pub which had great music, we could have chosen the play list, football on the TV.

We had a pint each €12.50 and planned our next steps.

Walking again until we found Al Portego Osteria for more Chicheti and house red each which was €8.00.

Then had a long walk through Castillo to Arsenale.

As the sun was setting we decided to head back to the apartment arriving back around 4:30. Still no sign of staff so emailed them. We had an Espresso on the terrace, recharged out batteries and started thinking about how to spend this evening

20,456 steps so far!!

Not many pictures to round this off. I left my camera at the apartment just to enjoy seeing things without spending time taking photos. Plus I didn't want to carry anything. I did have my phone though.

Walked to Osteria Ai Pugni in the Academic district - 2 glasses house red €8.00. Then looked for a restaurant recommended in the book but was closed so went to Il Caffe Rossa where we had an Aperol Spritz and Campari spritz each (Campari much more bitter) which came with bowls of crisps €14.00. Then onto Bakaro for a beer each some crisps and nuts €14.50. Decided we wanted to work our way back to a more central area so went to the Devils Forest pub again, 2 pints each were €30.00. all of this because we couldn't decide on where to eat! (And you all wonder why I plan our holidays as much as I do). We went to find somewhere selling pizza but there was nowhere (Much to Carls dismay!)

No food meant I was a little tipsy. Walked back to the apartment had some malteasers bar (Lucky I always pack a snack) and some water and got ready for bed 23:45.

29,542 steps, 11.7 miles walked and 42 flights climbed today! phew.

Tuesday 14th January.

Had a little lie in left just after 10. Decided to head to Marchini Time for breakfast again but there were no Almond Croissant!! I had a Strawberry & Raspberry Tart with a Cappuccino. Carl had a different pastry and cappuccino and we shared a blueberry croissant. All delicious but none were as good as the Almond croissant.

After breakfast we headed over to St Marks square as we wanted to see if the Doges palace was busy which it wasn't at all! Entry was €25.00 each and we spent just under 2 hours exploring the Palace & Jail and crossing the bridge of spies (We kept calling it that for some reason. We know it is the bridge of sighs). I took tons of photos, here's just a few...

Left the Palace at 12:15 and decided to start our sleuthing mystery tour to find the Ruyi

We solved the first 3 clues then found a cafe where I had a Cappuccino and Coke Carl had a Cappuccino and Arancini €10.00. We completed some more clues then found Dal Moro for a takeaway lunch of fresh pasta

Carl had Fattoria with Parmesan, I had Bolognese with Parmesan The photo doesn't make it look that great but it was absolutely delicious and so filling. Cost €16.50. We ate on the go trying to solve more clues.

We had hoped for a little more from this. We have done similar things in the UK which were much better planned out with a better flow of direction making us see places we wouldn't have otherwise. We had hoped that would be the case with this but we just seemed to go back and forth across the city quite often ending up next to where we had been 30 minutes earlier. It was also a little irritating we had to text them each answer to get the next clue to follow. We did learn some interesting facts (although I confess I am writing this 6 months later and can't really recall any). And we did get to visit Acqua Alta

Our last clue was on a building which had a facade covering it as it was having some work done. Good old Google images found us what we needed so we were able to solve the quest.

All finished as the sun was setting.

Headed back to the apartment to chill out for a bit and charge our phones before heading back out just before 7. Went to Spar to pick up some bits and pieces, went to Devils Forest pub for a drink then the Disney store to buy some Christmas decorations we had seen at half price a few days earlier. Then went to get some pizza. Ended up getting it from near the Rialto bridge so not the cheapest - 2 slices cheese, 2 pepperoni was a whopping €18.00. Took it back to the apartment where we enjoyed it with a glass of Chianti and the last of the Malteasers chocolate bar.

Carl made us sandwiches for tomorrow and I got our stuff ready both of us had aching legs so went to bed a little after 9 and read for a bit with a cup of tea (How old are we?!?!?!?)

Today we did 24,046 steps, miles and 23 flights climbed.

Wednesday 15th January

Up, showered cup of tea whilst working out the vaparetto (Water bus) prices and best way to buy for today. Left the apartment 08:41 and decided to try a different place for breakfast today - one we had seen in a YouTube Vlog - Torrefazione Cannaregio which is a coffee roasterie. Took about 25 mins to walk there but as it was out of the centre it was larger and had seating which was a bonus after all the walking we've been doing. Plus today was the coldest start by far so we were glad to be inside for a while.

Both really enjoyed the coffee so decided to have 2 cappuccinos each, which were larger than the other place, Carl had a Croissant and I had an apple filled pastry. The coffee and the location were better although further. Pastries don't compare to that Almond croissant though! €10.80 for breakfast.

Left 09:45 and walked to Orto Vaporetto (water bus) stop. No ticket office there. I had downloaded the app earlier but we were a little unsuer how it all worked. In the end I ordered 2 24hr passes on the app for €20 each and validated on the boat. Super easy. The 1 return trip was €15ea so glad we got the day pass! Because we were working out the tickets we just missed the faster boat number 4.1 which has fewer stops than the 4.2 We were on our way to Murano around 10:20

We walked around the island hoping to find somewhere to watch the glass blowing but everywhere was shut because of the off season! Seems closures there are December, January and February. Some do open but ony have demos certain days of the week. The one downside of off season. Far fewer crowds but not everything is available. We found a cafe so had a cappuccino followed by ice cream - I had my fave which is mint choc chip mmmm! Carl had Cookies. Both were delicious €10.40.

I know, coldest day yet and we still had ice cream. What can I say, we love it, especially great gelato!

We headed back to the pier and around the other side a little eventually finding a factory open for demos of glass blowing. It starts as very fine sand and they only use minerals for colourings. It's generally kept in the family as there are no schools to teach Murano glass blowing techniques. It is only passed father to son and only select outsiders if no alternative. There are free demos in season. This one was €3 each which we could have taken off a purchase but we didn't want to carry it all day.

We then rushed to the other side of the Island to catch the 12:40 boat to Burano.

Got tired of flying!

This bus stopped at Mazzorbo, Torcello and Burano. We noticed Mazzorbo and Burano were linked so we got off there and walked over beating the bus! We could have looked around before that boat load arrived but we were ready for some food so had a little picnic in the park of the sandwiches Carl had made. We were surrounded by hungry pigeons.

Burano was a real highlight for us. Sleepy fishing village feel but so so vibrant and colourful. Whilst there we stopped in Bar Caffe Palmisano for an Aperol spritz ea €10.00.

We then hopped on another bus

We contemplated going to the lido but as that is a little more beachy and it was freezing we headed for the next stop instead which was San Marco. From there we decided to hop on the boat to San Giorgio which has an outdoor theatre and maze which was closed.

We decided to go up the Campanile €3ea which pays for the upkeep of the church. There was a lift up (phew). Was a little too cloudy for a proper sunset which is just as well as my camera battery died after a few photos although Carl did take the battery up and warmed it up so we could get a phew more.

Back over to San Marco and straight onto the number 1 bus which goes up the Grand Canal, under the Rialto Bridge getting off at Ca' d'oro as Carl had found a few beer places in the guide book he wanted to try.

I have a lot of writing here and as you know my camera died so not a whole lot of photos so please bear with.

1st stop was my fave of the lot Il Santo Bevitore which had over 20 different beers on tap, whisky and Gin. No other alcohol options at all. They offered 3 sizes small which was 250ml which we chose for our last 3 beers and €4 each, Medium which was 330ml which we chose for the first beer at €5.50 and large at 400ml We had the following Italian beers

Me - Carl-

1 Porter by Bi-Du called Confine AIPA by Elav called Grunge

2 Venetian Stout by Redentor called Sepa White hoppy ale by Lucky brews called Whale

3 Helles by Salento called Agricola AIPA by Barbaforte called Obice

4 APA by Lucky Brews called Japa DIPA by Elav called Techo

Not the cheapest but all were nice and we enjoyed some people watching and the place was nice. I have made one note here - weird loo...

Time for some food so we decided to check out a place we had heard of called Fried Land where we shared an amazing Carbonara which was €6.00

popped in a fancy spar and I have a photo so you can have it too ;-)

Then onto another beer place which was a little different it had loads of fridges filled with beer from all over the world. We happened to pick 2 cans from breweries from just south of Verona. Beers were nice but bar also had an open bar at the front onto the street where the owner was smoking which made me a little queasy so only had the 1 there €12.00.

Started heading back picking up some pizza en route

Back in the apartment a little after 9 time for a cuppa in bed.

Todays step count was 24,793 9 floors and 10 miles

Thursday 16th January

Lazy start today for our 10th wedding anniversary. Carl had bought some orange Juice and Prosecco so brought me a bucks fizz/mimosa in bed which we then took up to the rooftop - much sunnier and warmer today.

Headed out around 10:20 and decided on a different breakfast location today Called Dolcevita which was another place we had seen on YouTube. Youtube was a really great place for finding out great places to eat in Venice.

We each had a Donut with a custard filling one of which also had Marsala. Carl also had a Wholegrain croissant filled with custard and hazlenuts and I had a Pistachio croissant filled with pistachio cream total was €10.00 total.

Each breakfast spot had something we loved - the Almond croissants the first day have not been beaten, Torrefazione had the best coffee and atmosphere, Dolcevita had the whole package of great food, great coffee and great atmosphere. We did decide if we only had 1 leisurely breakfast out on a future trip, we would choose Dolcevita. If we just wanted a break and a coffee we would choose Torrefazione.

After breakfast we walked over to St Mark Square. We went in the basilica which is free for entry but strictly no photos. The gold mosaics inside were something else! I did take some photos of the outside though

What is one of the first things people think about when they think of Venice??? Gondola rides! we decided we wanted to save ours for our anniversary and it was the warmest day so we next headed to the Lagoon. Boarded our Gondola around midday it was €80 for just over 30 minutes. The price is the same no matter where in the city you pick one up.

It was a peaceful and lovely way to see some of the city but perhaps a little overrated, especially for the price. But something I had always wanted to do so that's something off the bucket list.

Then we were off to hunt for the pizza Carl had seen on the first day and had been wanting ever since! We always passed the place too early for Pizza or too late and they were closing up. Had 2 very large slices of Margherita for €8.00. This place was close to the apartment so we took it back there to have with the drinks we already had - prosecco and red wine.

Started packing up and getting organised to leave the following day so we didn't have to worry about it later and could just enjoy our last few hours.

We headed back out a little after 2. Walked across the the Academia Bridge passed the Basilica di Santa Maria Della Salute along the Canale Di Fusina. It was boiling in the sun! We sat there for a little while taking in the view then visited the Basilica.

We then headed back across the Grand canal and decided to head to Harrys bar which we had read or heard a lot about in various guides. Iconic maybe, overrated absolutely! I had a Peach Bellini which was invented there, Carl had a whisky sour which we think was made with Jack Daniels they cost €22 and €24 respectively. Yesterday we had planned to go to the Skyline bar on top of a hotel on the Lido but decided against it. The prices were the same as this place but it at least provided views over the city which we both agreed would have made the price worth it. You live and learn! anyone reading this Our recommendation is don't go to Harrys - seek out the Skyline bar instead, we will be going there next time!

We then went to a restaurant with a bar we stumbled on the first night Rossopomodoro.

Carl and his bestie Tintin

We each had an Aperol spritz and they gave us some Chicheti. We spent some time reading up about the different spritzes and Carl decided to have a Campari, too bitter for me, I'll stick to the Aperol

Carl decided this was the best place to come for a spritz. Total was €9.50.

We then went for a walk trying to find the narrowest street

Back to Devils Forest pub for 1 last drink noticed they had a webcam so asked some family if they could see us enjoying our drink, did a little shopping and then went on the hunt for our last Gelato. We found Ci Gusta €1.80 for 1 scoop but they really crammed it in, it was probably really 3 normal scoops! mine was €2.20 as I had a limited edition flavour - Tiramisu, Carl had Latte. Not sure if Carl has ever really learnt how to eat ice cream from a cone as he made a heck of a mess!

For our last meal we decided to head back to Dal Moro where Carl chose Carbonara and I had a seafood pasta. Both agreed the Carbonara we had the night before was the best but they were all really good! We took this back to the apartment where we enjoyed it using up the drinks we had - Chianti, Orange San Pellegrino, teas and coffees and bought the Airport boat tickets ready for the morning. Bed about 9:30 where we watched a documentary on Netflix.

Today we did 22,848 steps 8.6 miles 18 floors.

Friday 17th January.

Up around 7 and left about 30 mins later. We went to Marchini Time for breakfast arriving jst as it opened. Had a warm fresh Almond Croissant YUM!!! and cappuccino each then off to catch the 08:05 boat back to the airport.

Flight was delayed but we still got back at the scheduled time. It was pouring down!! We ended up stopping for a Subway sandwich for lunch on the way home. I got all the clothes washing done and enjoyed a 2 hour!! nap. We finished off our break with an Indian takeaway

Stormy skies on the way home! little did we know what was to follow, a pretty stormy year!

Sadly about 2 weeks after we got home Hather got very sick and we had to have him put down. Thankfully he was only poorly for a very short time! It was very difficult though. Carl had gone away snowboarding in Andorra so wasn't very easy to get hold of but thankfully I had decided I'd stay home. I am so glad I did!

Then Covid-19 hit and put us all in lockdown for several months. Work got really busy for both of us but as we knew a lot of our friends and family were home on furlough we were more sociable than ever with zoom meetings, online quizzes together, family craft tasks to give everyone something to look forward to. Had to call it a day and try and get back to normal as we were getting a bit burnt out on all of the online meetings. We baked, both had lockdown birthdays although mine was more in lockdown then his. Carl built a treehouse for our nephews and all our friends kids who come to visit which has been a huge hit! We had our trip to Berlin cancelled but gained 2 new family members/bosses so not all bad I guess

Today is 12th July so better late than never. We are both very much ready for our next adventure!! We do have something booked for December so we will see if we can wait that long ;-) (Unlikely, I have already almost booked a ferry to Europe today!!)

Hopefully it won't be too long before I have a new adventure to write up!